No one knows and cooks the abundance of fish in the Salzkammergut as well as Lukas Nagl. The chef of the “Bootshaus” restaurant on Lake Traunsee, who has been awarded 4 toques, recently published his next cookbook on the subject – “Fisch gegrillt” (Grilled fish) contains wonderful fish recipes for the barbecue summer (plus side dishes and sauces), and the chef of the year 2023 also gives tips on gutting, carving, cupping, mincing and smoking.
It is no coincidence that many barbecue fans have respect for grilling fish: unlike meat and vegetables, fish often sticks to the grill. “The main thing that helps against this,” says Lukas Nagl, “is the courage to use heat. The grill really has to be very hot for direct grilling.” It is also important to create several temperature zones, i.e. not to distribute the charcoal evenly under the grill, “but to create a hot and a less hot side on which indirect cooking can then continue.”
Cast iron pan for grilling fish
Basically, fillets are a little easier to get perfect. Nagl’s tip: “Always grill them on the skin side only, until they are almost cooked, and then let the meat side kiss the hot grill for just a few seconds – just as you would fry them in a pan.” Speaking of pans: Nagl recommends buying a cast iron pan for fish grill fans, “because it’s a real all-rounder, both in the kitchen and when grilling. I’m generally not a fan of coated cookware, and it’s particularly bad for grilling – the high temperature and the coating don’t mix at all.”
Fish with firm meat for barbecue beginners
Nagl advises all those venturing into grilling fish for the first time to choose fish with firm flesh. “Sturgeon, for example, is the ideal grilled fish, as its meat is almost similar in consistency to a pork loin and always works well on the grill. A fo
trout or char fillet, on the other hand, is somewhat more sensitive. It doesn’t belong directly on the grill, but is grilled indirectly – either on a skewer over the embers, on a salt or pizza stone or wrapped in a leaf – almost any edible plant is suitable, from bananas to figs and walnuts.”
Cheers to the charcoal grill
But which grill should you put your fish on? Nagl has a clear opinion on this: “Personally, I’m a fan of the good old charcoal barbecue. Of course, a gas grill also has its advantages – everything goes faster because you don’t have to build up a fire to the perfect embers first, and the temperatures are easier to regulate – but the smoke and smoky aromas that are created on a charcoal grill are simply unbeatable for me.”
Recipe tip from the book: Reinanken saltimbocca
Lukas Nagl likes to use the tail pieces of whitefish for this dish. Any other fish and other cuts are of course also suitable, says the chef, for example char or trout. Serve with polenta or a simple risotto.
Ingredients :
8 slices of hamburger bacon
8 sage leaves
4 fillets of white fish, with skin, halved
Peel and juice of one orange
Salt
Preparation :
Place 2 strips of bacon next to each other on the work surface and cover with a sage leaf. Then place a halved fillet of white fish on top, skin side down. Season the fillet with orange zest and salt and place the second half of the fillet on top of the other, meat side down, like a sandwich. With
Top with another sage leaf and roll up the fish sandwich with the bacon.
Place the fish packets on the very hot grill and grill on all sides.
Photos: Helge and Patrick Kirchberger (recipe) and Georg Kukuvec
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