Sparkling wine from the flute, red wine with cheese, white wine with fish: many unwritten laws that were enacted ages ago for whatever reason no longer apply today. But what is the current trend? What is allowed and what is not allowed when it comes to wine?
The answers to these questions are provided by Lenz Maria Moser, someone who was literally born into wine 68 years ago. Moser comes from the famous winegrowing family from Krems, represents the fifth generation and is considered an obsessive when it comes to wine. For 19 years now, he has been working as a winemaker at Changyu, China’s oldest winery and the fourth largest in the world, where he produces Cabernet Sauvignons of outstanding quality, which are now also very popular with wine connoisseurs in Europe. As if that were not enough, Moser makes wines in Portugal, Hungary and his native Austria, all of which are sold in a recently opened store in the Fashion Outlet Parndorf, which bears the curious name “Wein mal anders”.
Mr. Moser, Only red wine with cheese, only white wine with fish – many of these supposed rules have long been passé. Why did they exist and why are they no longer available this year?
There used to be more conventions and people in the culinary world simply decided to do this and that without questioning it any longer. Today, on the other hand, there is a much wider range of food and wine on offer – a lot has changed. In addition, consumers today are more self-confident and decide for themselves what they like and why. I also go to a restaurant and order a bottle of wine first and then the food – that can be a steak with a fat Chardonnay if I feel like it.
Do we drink wine differently today than we did 20 years ago?
I would say that we are drinking less, more selectively and, not least, more consciously. For example, if there’s no proper wine at a party, I drink water – I’m radical about that. And then not every day, but only every other day – that’s good for me and I look forward to a good glass all the more.
Speaking of glasses: the wine glass is increasingly replacing the champagne flute or champagne flute. Why?
Champagne is first and foremost wine, but with a champagne glass – as great as it may look – the whole beautiful aroma is lost, while nothing can develop with a flute. Therefore, a nice larger glass is ideal, in which the wine is guaranteed to unfold in the bubbly.
It was also said that red wine should be enjoyed at room temperature, and even that has long been seen a little differently. Why is it often better to serve it at the right temperature?
Today’s red wines are heavier in alcohol, which is “volatile” and therefore evaporates more quickly at higher temperatures, and you can taste that. In other words, the alcohol is perceived more strongly than the other ingredients and this is not good for the harmony of the wine.
On the subject of decanting: When is it worth it, when is it not?
When in doubt, always decant – the wine gets air and can then simply present itself better. It is nothing other than rapid oxidation and this is intentional with good wines. I already decant Chardonnays, our white Cabernet from China and so on… And red wines from 25 euros a piece anyway.
The famous tasting sip in a restaurant – how do I do it properly without embarrassing myself?
Look at the wine first, because the color is important. The color of a fine Grüner Veltliner, for example, should never be too golden, as this would indicate unintentional oxidation. Overly brown edges on red wine are also an indicator that something is not quite right. Then be sure to swirl the glass, as this increases the surface area and releases more fragrance, and then smell. Finally, taste it, so just take a big sip and taste whether it’s corked, if you haven’t already smelled it. By the way, you can only send it back if it has a cork taste and not if you don’t like it.
What can I not go wrong with when choosing a wine – either in restaurants or at home?
The guest or customer is always right, because drinking what you like is never a mistake. There are no more conventions today. You don’t have to prove anything to the waiter or sommelier, you’re paying for it. But it helps if you get advice from someone who knows their way around – that increases the enjoyment.
How have the wine trends changed in the past changed in recent years?
The great white wine wave is currently underway, changing from red to white and vice versa every 20 years – with a maximum fluctuation of 15 percent. And rosé has also long since become socially acceptable again. Otherwise: more alcohol in the wine – this is due to the climate, more choice – keyword globalization, more knowledge about wine. Because it’s simply chic to know your way around wine.
Which wines should you always have at home? Or to put it another way: which wines are always the right choice?
Impossible to answer, but surely everyone has a few favorite wineries. And it is precisely these wines that he or she would probably always want to have at home. For example, I really like Robert Weil from the Rheingau, FX Pichler and Hirtzberger from the Wachau, Phelan Segur and Beychevelle from Bordeaux, Opus One from Napa Valley and many more. Of course, my own wines are always at home, because I can’t go wrong with a New Chapter Grüner Veltliner. China also always surprises and a Mad Moser Aszu 2013 blows everyone away.
Apart from Austria, they also do business in China, Australia and Hungary. Wine. Which of your wine countries is the most exciting and what is worth trying?
China is amazing, although very difficult because of the language and culture. However, I will soon have 20 years on Chinese soil under my belt, there is no other like me in the world. 20 years with the company Changyu and thus 20 years of the ultimately successful attempt to make the vision of China acceptable. Now things are starting to go really well. And Austria is always exciting too. My family invented Grüner Veltliner in Austria, my grandfather with his high culture, and my father and I were the first to write GV on the labels.
“Wine with a difference”: Fashion Outlet Parndorf, Gewerbestraße 4, 7111 Parndorf
Opening hours: Monday to Thursday from 9:30 to 19:00, Friday from 9:30 to 20:00, Saturday from 9:00 to 18:00
Contact: weinmalanders@tantetrude.at or 0043 677 62533560
Photos: Changyu Pioneer and Jürgen Hammerschmid
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