Christmas goose has been a tradition in Europe for centuries. It was originally served on St. Martin’s Day in November, but later found a permanent place on the Christmas table. The symbolism of the goose dates back to the Middle Ages, when it was seen as a sign of prosperity and togetherness. But today, some questions arise: How do you recognize a really good goose? And what are the differences between conventional and organic goose?
Karin and Harald Neumaerker, founders of “Aumaerk Fleischmanufaktur”, are proven experts when it comes to any kind of meat: the couple have been running their company in Vienna since 2014 with the aim of refining meat of the highest quality and from species-appropriate husbandry. “We want to make the meat world a little bit better,” explains qualified meat sommelier Karin Neumaerker, adding that her company uses a patented process that combines millennia-old culinary art with state-of-the-art technology. Aumaerk Fleischmanufaktur refines every single piece of meat in a complex process that takes 192 hours and 19 refinement steps. This makes it possible to prepare high-quality meat perfectly and without preservatives for the festive occasion – including the (Christmas) goose.
How do you recognize a high-quality goose?
“Finding a good goose is not always easy,” explains Karin Neumaerker. She and her husband have tasted and tested numerous types of goose in recent years, “for us it is crucial that the goose comes from species-appropriate husbandry. You can recognize an organic pasture-raised goose by its size and fat marbling, and the trained palate can also recognize it by its meat. “Especially unseasoned”, says the mother of two, “this is very clear. A pasture-raised or organic goose has a much stronger aroma and therefore requires less seasoning during preparation. They taste more intense.”
Of course, the breed also plays a role: “An Austrian country goose usually weighs between 5.5 and 7 kilograms, while a Toulouse goose from France can weigh up to 10 kilograms. As with Wagyu, Angus and Simmental cattle, there are also different characteristics.”
The typical aroma: What makes organic geese taste so special?
“A goose from a pasture-fed farm tastes much more intense and has a firm but tender texture,” says Karin Neumaerker, describing the difference. The movement on the pasture ensures stronger muscle tissue and a thicker layer of fat, which protects the goose from the weather. This layer gives the skin a special crispiness when roasted. “The skin of a pastured goose is thicker and becomes particularly crispy when roasted. Caged geese don’t have this because they simply don’t need the layer of fat.”
Fresh or frozen goose – is there a loss of quality?
In the run-up to Christmas, frozen goose is often on offer. Bad? Not at all! “A frozen goose can be just as good as a fresh one if it is defrosted properly,” says Neumaerker. “The meat should be defrosted slowly in the fridge for three days to preserve its taste and texture.” If you stick to this rule, you will hardly notice any difference in taste.
How much goose per person?
A common mistake when planning a goose dish is to plan too little. “The bone structure of the goose is dense, so you should plan for around 400 grams of goose per person,” advises Neumaerker. The legs are particularly popular. This is another reason why “Aumaerk” offers extra portioned goose legs that are ready to serve without much effort.
The right seasoning: less is more
Karin Neumaerker advises restraint in seasoning, especially when preparing organic pasture-raised goose. “The best way to bring out the flavor of a pasture-raised goose is with a few organic herbs. It always hurts my heart when I see people using ready-made spice mixtures that are actually intended for conventional geese and can mask the taste of an organic goose.” The Neumaerkers have developed their own spice mix that is precisely tailored to the flavor of the pastured goose – but the composition remains a well-kept secret. The classic spices are marjoram, which is rubbed into the inside and outside of the roast, along with a little caraway, pepper, salt and mugwort. The latter, by the way, is known as goose weed, has a slightly bitter taste and makes fatty meat more digestible.
To wash or not to wash? Hygiene tips for preparation
A typical mistake in the kitchen is washing poultry. “Please never wash poultry,” warns Karin Neumaerker urgently. “Rinsing spreads germs such as salmonella around the kitchen and increases the risk of cross-contamination.” Instead, she recommends simply patting the goose dry and then treating it directly with the spices. The high temperature during roasting reliably kills all germs.
Perfect Christmas goose thanks to core temperature: preparation tips
To ensure that the goose is juicy and well cooked, the expert recommends using a core temperature probe. “The old ‘one hour per kilo principle’ is now outdated. If you work with a thermometer, you can cook the goose to the point at 75 degrees in the core.” This temperature ensures a perfect consistency. For the final crispiness of the skin, she advises grilling the goose again just before serving.
Relaxed celebration: enjoy the Christmas goose pre-cooked
For those who want to save themselves the effort, Aumaerk offers pre-cooked and refined geese that only need to be heated. “Our geese are prepared so that they are ready to serve in 20 minutes – perfect for a stress-free Christmas Eve,” explains Neumaerker. “We know that everything often has to happen at the same time on Christmas Eve. The children are waiting, the presents are ready – we want the goose to arrive at the table stress-free and in top quality.”
In the new “Aumaerk Restaurant & Flagshipstore” at Seilergasse 14 in the heart of Vienna, which opened in September 2023, customers can purchase the refined specialties directly – including the coveted Christmas goose.
For all those who would like to prepare the goose themselves, we have selected a recipe for you:
Christmas goose with apple stuffing
Ingredients
- 1 goose (approx. 4-5 kg, ready to cook)
- Salt, pepper
- 2 apples (cut into wedges)
- 2 onions (halved)
- 2 sprigs of thyme
- 1 sprig of rosemary
- 1-2 tbsp marjoram
- 100 ml apple juice
- 200 ml chicken soup
- 1-2 tbsp cornflour (to thicken)
Preparation
- Season the inside of the goose with salt, pepper and marjoram.
- Stuff the goose with the apple slices, onions, thyme and rosemary. Close the opening with kitchen string.
- Lightly score the skin of the goose (especially in the fatty areas, e.g. the thighs) so that the fat can escape easily.
- Preheat the oven to 180 °C top/bottom heat.
- Place the goose, breast side down, on the rack over a roasting pan and roast for approx. 90 minutes. Baste occasionally with the fat that comes out.
- Turn the goose, add apple juice and 200 ml water to the fat pan and roast for a further 90 minutes until the skin is crispy.
- Carefully drain the juices from the goose from the fat pan and remove the fat. Bring to the boil with the chicken stock.
- Thicken with cornstarch and season to taste.
You can find hearty side dish recipes here:
https://aumaerk.com/at-de/rezepte/herbstliches-rotkraut
https://aumaerk.com/at-de/rezepte/erdaepfelknoederl-mit-karamellisierten-zwiebeln
https://aumaerk.com/at-de/rezepte/kohlsprossen-mit-maroni-und-pancetta
MYHOME.AT Expert
Karin and Harald Neumaerker have been running Aumaerk Fleischmanufaktur since 2014 with the aim of making the meat world a little bit better. Based in Vienna, the meat factory refines meat of the highest quality from species-appropriate animal husbandry, without additives or preservatives, to create the “best meat in the world”. The company uses a patented process to combine thousands of years of culinary art with state-of-the-art technology.
Homepage: https://aumaerk.com/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/aumaerk_fleischmanufaktur/
Facebook: https://de-de.facebook.com/aumaerk/
Tiktok: https://www.tiktok.com/@aumaerk
Photos: Florence Stoiber
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